I had heard about Bhubaneswar being called the City of Temples, but nothing prepared me for the feeling of actually being there. As soon as I arrived in this quiet, green city in eastern India, I could feel a sense of timelessness in the air. It wasn’t just about old stones and sacred chants; it was about walking through centuries of living history.
This wasn’t a place where temples stood apart from life. They were a part of every street corner, every early morning sound, and every conversation with the locals. Bhubaneswar felt sacred, yet it was welcoming in the most earthy, simple way.
The Sacred Origins of Bhubaneswar
Bhubaneswar is the capital of Odisha, a state known for its classical dance, rich tribal culture, and temple art. The name of the city comes from Tribhubaneswar, which means “Lord of the Three Worlds,” referring to Lord Shiva. It is believed that Lord Shiva once descended here and was so pleased by the beauty of the place that he decided to stay forever. This spiritual story still breathes life into the city.
Historically, Bhubaneswar was the capital of ancient Kalinga, a kingdom that once stood proud against the mighty Mauryan Empire. After the Kalinga War, Emperor Ashoka, shaken by the bloodshed, embraced Buddhism. Just a few kilometers from Bhubaneswar lies Dhauli Hill, where he is said to have stood and changed his heart.
But while Buddhism left its mark, it was the Shaivite kings, especially from the Keshari and Somavamsi dynasties, who transformed Bhubaneswar into a city of temples. Most of the temples we see today were built between the 7th and 13th centuries.
Lingaraj Temple: The Heart of the City
If Bhubaneswar is the City of Temples, then Lingaraj Temple is its heart. The first time I saw it; I stood still for a long time. Its spire reaches high into the sky, almost as if trying to touch something divine. This 11th-century temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva, though interestingly, the presiding deity is known as Harihara form that combines both Shiva and Vishnu.
The temple complex is massive, filled with smaller shrines, stone pathways, and the scent of flowers and incense. Only Hindus are allowed inside, but there’s a raised viewing platform nearby that offers a wonderful view of the structure. Even from a distance, the intricate carvings and the graceful curves of the temple leave you in awe.
The stone walls seem to whisper stories of rituals, of kings and saints, and of everyday people who have walked here for over a thousand years.
Mukteshwar Temple: Small in Size, Grand in Beauty
Not far from Lingaraj stands the Mukteshwar Temple, which is much smaller but possibly even more beautiful. Built in the 10th century, this temple is often called the “gem of Odisha temple architecture.” As I walked through its graceful archway the Torana I was struck by how delicate and detailed it was. It reminded me of Buddhist gateways I had seen in Sanchi, but here it stood in a Shaivite temple.
The carvings here are deeply human, women combing their hair, musicians playing instruments, couples sharing tender moments. It made me realize that devotion, here, wasn’t only about the gods but also about life in all its beauty.
Locals say this temple marks a turning point in Kalinga architecture, where art became as important as the structure itself.
Rajarani Temple: A Temple Without a God
Next, I visited Rajarani Temple, which is different from the others. An 11th century temple, it doesn’t house any deity and is more like a monument than a working temple. But what a monument it is! Surrounded by quiet gardens, the temple stands alone in a peaceful enclosure. The red gold stone the temple is built from glows in the afternoon sun. They call it “Rajarani” stone, which gives the temple its name.
What makes this temple special is its sensual carvings—dancing figures, divine lovers, and scenes from ancient life. It reminded me that Indian temple art often celebrates life, love, and beauty, not just religious devotion. Walking around the temple, I felt like I was in the middle of a moving sculpture, one that had frozen centuries ago.
Parasurameswar Temple: The Oldest Witness
Among all the temples, Parasurameswar Temple felt the most ancient. Built in the 7th century, it’s considered one of the oldest temples still standing in Bhubaneswar. It is smaller than the others but filled with character. The carvings here are of gods and goddesses, animals, and mythical creatures. One of the highlights is a panel showing Lord Shiva with his wife Parvati—dancing together in cosmic rhythm.
Standing there, I tried to imagine how many pilgrims, monks, and kings might have stood in the same spot, praying or simply listening to the sound of temple bells.
Ananta Vasudeva: A Vishnu Temple in Shaiva Land
While most of Bhubaneswar’s temples are dedicated to Lord Shiva, Ananta Vasudeva Temple breaks the pattern. This 13th-century temple honors Lord Vishnu and his siblings—Balarama and Subhadra. Inside, the idols resemble those of the Jagannath Temple in Puri.
This is one of the few temples in Bhubaneswar where the temple kitchen is an attraction in itself. I tried the prasad, and it was absolutely delicious—simple food made with devotion, served with warmth.
Beyond the Temples: Caves, Ashoka’s Peace, and Local Life
Bhubaneswar is not just a temple town. A short ride from the city brought me to the Udayagiri and Khandagiri Caves, carved by Jain monks over two thousand years ago. I climbed the hills to explore the caves, each with pillars, inscriptions, and reliefs. The view from the top was beautiful, the modern city stretching far beyond the ancient rocks.
Another stop that moved me deeply was Dhauli Hill, where Emperor Ashoka is believed to have laid down his weapons after witnessing the horrors of the Kalinga War. Today, a white Peace Pagoda (Shanti Stupa) stands here, built by Japanese Buddhists. As I sat there under the fading sky, I felt a deep calm settle in. Peace, perhaps, is the true victory of any war.
Back in the city, I explored Ekamra Haat, a crafts village where I met weavers, painters, and artisans. The traditional handlooms, silver filigree jewelry, and palm-leaf paintings made perfect souvenirs—and the food stalls offered steaming hot dalma (a lentil and vegetable stew) with rice.
Flavours of Bhubaneswar: A Taste of Tradition
No journey is complete without food, and in Bhubaneswar, every meal feels like a slice of the region’s heritage. The city’s cuisine is simple, nourishing, and deeply rooted in local tradition. One of the highlights was trying the temple-style Odia prasad at the Ananta Vasudeva Temple—a soulful combination of rice, dal, vegetables, and ghee, cooked in earthen pots over a wood fire.
Outside the temples and in local eateries, I found dishes like dalma (a wholesome mix of lentils and vegetables), pakhala bhata (fermented rice with curd), and chakuli pitha (a kind of rice pancake) served with mustard-flavored curries or fried fish. Sweets like chhena poda, a baked cottage cheese dessert, were simply irresistible. Whether at a roadside stall or a traditional thali restaurant, Bhubaneswar’s food was always comforting, flavored not just with spices, but with warmth and simplicity.
How to Reach Bhubaneswar
Bhubaneswar is well connected by air, rail, and road. I flew into Biju Patnaik International Airport, which has regular flights from major Indian cities like Delhi, Mumbai, and Kolkata. The railway station is also centrally located and serves trains from across the country. Getting around the city was easy, autos, taxis, and app-based cabs are available, and most temple clusters are walkable.
Best Time to Visit
The best months to explore Bhubaneswar are from October to March when the weather is cool and pleasant. If you can, time your visit during Shivratri or the Mukteshwar Dance Festival, when the temples come alive with music, lamps, and celebrations.
Final Thoughts: A City That Whispers its Stories
Bhubaneswar is not loud or crowded like many famous pilgrimage cities in India. It doesn’t overwhelm you, it draws you in. The temples are not just old buildings; they are storytellers. They speak of gods and mortals, of architecture and artistry, of devotion and daily life.
If you love history, architecture, and spiritual spaces, Bhubaneswar is not just a destination, it’s a journey through time. I left the city feeling richer, not in things, but in experience, understanding and spirituality. And I know I will return not just to see more temples, but to listen to more stories they have yet to tell.
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